You can find our backlights at http://retromodding.com
Required Parts:
Not to mention the stripped screw. No more cheap, crappy tools. Can anyone recommend a tri-wing screwdriver that wasn't made for ants? I want a full-size driver that can still reach the deep DMG screws. I'm apparently bad at judging the size of a screwdriver based on a picture, and I've given up looking for one locally.
- ASM Density Backlight
- Philips head Screwdriver
- Smaller Philips head Screwdriver
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
Grab these replacement tri wing screws for Gameboy DMG, Color & Advance. Free delivery! Features:- For use with various Nintendo handhelds- Compatible screws with Y tri wing head.- Ideal for replacing lost or damaged screws.- Includes 10 screws per pack.- Requires a tri wing screwdriver. An extensive guide, for modding your gameboy to integrate a pro-sound stereo jack for you LSDJ Chiptune lovers. The triwing screwdriver is an integral part of this mod. Nintendo use a non-standard screw on the 6 found on the outside of the case.
![Gameboy Dmg Triwing Screws Gameboy Dmg Triwing Screws](/uploads/1/3/4/3/134368398/276701877.jpg)
Optional Parts:
- Flux
- Razorblade Wire strippers/cutters
- Rubbing alcohol & cotton swabs (potentially optional)
- Rubber Gloves
For disassembling your Game Boy, visit our guide here: How to Disassemble a Game Boy
Before you begin, assure you have a genuine ASM Density Backlight. Refer to the hologram on the back of the backlight panel and reference the photo above for authenticity. Many of the Density imitations on the market are notorious for overheating the Game Boy's power regulator, causing the case's plastic to melt.
Introduction:
The LCD is comprised of four main layers shown in 'Figure 1'.
Our goal is to remove the bottom polarized film (which will be replaced with our own piece) and the reflective foil. DO NOT remove the top layer of polarized film. If you mistakenly remove it, you will not be able to see any data on your LCD screen.
The reflective foil is nontransparent, therefore it needs to be removed for the backlight to be visible. We remove the polarized film as well, because if we do not, there will be a considerable amount of glue residue left on it that is extremely difficult to remove. Furthermore, by using our own piece of polarized film we can 'invert' or 'bivert' the LCD.
Before we begin, we recommend wearing rubber gloves to prevent getting fingerprints on the LCD. We also put a piece of plastic over the front of the LCD to prevent scratches, but this is optional.
How To Remove Tri Wing Screws
The first step is to remove the back cover of the DMG. There are six screws, and depending on when your Gameboy was made, they are either going to be triwing or phillips. Triwing screws, for those of you unfamiliar, are Nintendo’s favorite way to make opening their products just ever so slightly more irritating. If you don’t want to spend a couple dollars on a triwing driver, you can do what I did and use a small flathead in one of the three slots in the screws. It’s not super difficult, but you definitely want to be careful to avoid stripping the screws. There’s four obvious ones on the back of the Gameboy, and two inside the battery compartment. You’ll need to remove all of these.
Once you take those screws out, don’t pull the Gameboy apart quickly. There’s a fairly short ribbon connector connecting the screen half of the Gameboy to the circuitry half. Carefully hinge unit so the screen half is face down on your desk with the circuitry portion sticking vertically upward. You could disconnect the ribbon cable at this point (it’s a ZIF socket, so the connector just slides out), but I didn’t want to bother having to reconnect it when I was done. You can do this repair quite easily without having to put this connector back in.
Once you take those screws out, don’t pull the Gameboy apart quickly. There’s a fairly short ribbon connector connecting the screen half of the Gameboy to the circuitry half. Carefully hinge unit so the screen half is face down on your desk with the circuitry portion sticking vertically upward. You could disconnect the ribbon cable at this point (it’s a ZIF socket, so the connector just slides out), but I didn’t want to bother having to reconnect it when I was done. You can do this repair quite easily without having to put this connector back in.